SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
(May 27, 1998 / Food Section):
by: Michael Bauer Chronicle Food Editor and Robin Davis

Last week we toured the Napa Valley. This week, we turn to the best, most interesting restaurants in the Sonoma area.

The downside of dining in Sonoma County is that it’s much more spread out than Napa. The upside, of course, is that as you drive to various restaurants, you can’t help but revel in the scenery, which becomes a fitting prelude to a great meal.

The county is a little behind Napa in terms of sophistication, but the dining scene is starting to catch fire, especially in the town of Sonoma. You could eat at a different restaurant practically every night of the week and have good food at each of them.

We’ve scoured the county to come up wiht the best and the britest. We’ve stayed away from downtown Santa Rosa and concentrated on those places that are more attuned to vines and vino.

Garden Court Cafe Rich and Stacy Treglia took over Faye’s Garden Court just a year ago and simplified the name. But the best of the old menu remains the same. The varieties of eggs Benedict, from the classic with Canadian bacon to the more adventurous version with chicken and avocado, are still popular. The Belgian waffles are great, especially when ordered topped with fresh fruit. House-made sausages and an old family gravy recipe make the biscuits and gravy fabulous.

Rich, who handles the cooking, makes all the pastries, such as citrus-scented buttery scones and equally delicious coffee cake. He also makes all the jams and preserves served at the cafe.

For lunch, the restaurant offers burgers and other sandwiches, some on house-made foccacia.

The decor is simple and sunny with its tile floor and blond wood accents. An umbrella-covered patio is another pleasant option, especially in the morning before it gets too hot. But if you want to take your food with you, the whole menu is available to go. And for an extra charge, the restaurant will package your food as a picnic lunch with wine glasses and a disposable tablecloth.

Garden Court recently started a four-course prix fixe dinner the first two Wednesdays of every month.

The cafe doesn’t have a wine list per se; the servers just tell you what they’re pouring that day.